Gail's Protective Gear

Okay, the pretty scarf is it... finest protective gear Afghanistan has to offer. So, do I look like an Afghan woman? My Afghan colleagues are thrilled to see me in this outfit, not sure because it's for my safety or the fact they think I'm moving over to becoming a good Muslim woman. And yes, I continue to wear the head scarf when outside established safe zones even though I hate wearing it. The smile is definitely a fake one.

As most of you have probably read, there was a bombing of a grocery store here in Kabul frequented by westerners. This occured about 4 blocks from our compound, so that'll keep me "honest" for a while for sure. I recognize how much I miss home and all of you and as our Robert Frost wrote "and miles to go before I sleep, and miles to go before I sleep."

Afghan Well Drillers

They are drilling a new well close to my compound, and given that well drilling is in our family thought I'd share the pictures. I was a initially self conscious about taking the pictures, but as you can tell by my smiling driller, he took absolutely no offense. I just showed him my camera and shrugged... he posed, I was thrilled. The equipment appears antiquated, but I'll tell you these guys had this baby cranking.

See the mud? Now, there's an intersting story I followed for a few days (hey, I live in Afghanistan with little outside entertainment). It apparently made sense to them to shovel the mud into wheel barrels and then dump it in the open sewers we have all around us. Once the sewers were filled up preventing any flow, I believe they discovered this was not such a good idea and emptied them out by shoveling the mud back into the wheel barrels and dumping it elsewhere. While I'm not a professional well driller, even I figured that one out. So, I'm walking by the day after that significant level of effort and found them dumping mud into the sewers again... saga repeated. I think this happened about three times before they resolved the problem. Hey David, there's lots of work here for intelligent well drillers!

Unlike NH getting mountains of snow, Kabul is suffering horrible draught conditions. Not sure even these guys will be able to drill deep enough. Could you send some snow our way please? From what I hear from Chaput, most of you would be open to this.

Okay, gotta dedicate this blog to PHIL BRIEN WELL DRILLING... David, Karen, Tia, Nick!

No Travel Today

Due to very high level of security conditions by the Afghan government and travel restrictions imposed on the international community, I will not be traveling to the ministry today. I hope those in power can get past this most unfortunate situation here, sitting of the legislative branch. For a most poor country I'm continually amazed about the Afghan peoples' tenacity when it comes to the well being of their country. I just hope this passion does not turn to violence.

I will be working out of my international compound today, so please no worries. May even get a chance to do lunch. And, I won't have to wear a headscarf!

Bad Situation, Pleasant Experience

As you may know from any of the news sources, the situation here in Afghanistan is tense these days. Parliamentary elections were held months ago; however, the election results were delayed pending investigations into fraud by both the international community and the Afghan government. Well, parliament was finally scheduled to begin on Jan 26; however (too many howevers associated with elections here), President Karzai delayed the sitting of the new Parlimentarians for another month until his investigation is completed. Some folks are claiming dictatorship, I do not have a position on that. The international community did push back on this delay decree and so did the people of Afghanistan. Given all this, the threat of explosions and attacks are pretty high inside Kabul right now. That's the bad situation.


The Pleasant Experience: The Deputy Director of Criminal Investigations (first on right) for the country of Afghanistan asked me to his office the other day, immediately. I had a lot going on so was initially frustrated with this abrupt "demand" for a meeting. He then related to me he was concerned about my safety given the current threat and told me stories of past high threat situations where he and the Director had to personally arm up to protect their facilities. He then told me how brave he considered me to be for coming in to continue my work and how much he appreciated all the hard work I'd been doing the last couple of months. He then told me I should be careful in my travels and should wear a large head scarf when outside the building to blend in better as this is my best defense. Note: ALL Afghan women wear head scarves, so this was good advice. Have I told you I despise wearing a head scarf? Anyway, my heart melted and I thanked him for his concern.


Interestingly, I then told him how my family is relying on him to keep me out of harm's way and that I had told you guys all about him. This appeared to cause him a degree of stress... he now feels personally responsible for my safety because he cares about you. For me, this is a good thing. So, please keep the pressure on from there.


And yes, I am wearing my large head scarf when outside our safe zones and during travel. I don't think he could handle the stress if I didn't.


PS: Please send me snow pictures, electronically will work. I've been telling my Afghan colleagues about the amount but they won't believe me.

Unexpected Visitor

I was called into the Director's office and he requested I sit in on a meeting with a visiting US Congressman. Turns out it was Senator Lindsey Graham, Republican from South Carolina (a pretty powerful guy inside our Senate). Unfortunately, I did not have the time I would have desired to help prepare for the meeting, but the issues I believed were to be discussed were not... he definitely had an agenda going in. Unfortunately, I cannot share that information here. Just know it was fascinating how congress works over here.

So, Graham, who is pictured 3rd from LEFT (we did not have a good photographer present) walks in with a Navy Captain (a Colonel in the Air Force). I quickly determined none of these gents had ever met so I made the introductions. I tried to introduce Graham as "Senator" but he corrected me telling me "I am here in my day job, Colonel Graham" to which I responded "oh, that makes us peers, I'm an Air Force Colonel too". I don't think he liked that tact too much and it was Senator after that. NOTE: Graham is an Air Force Reserve JAG (lawyer) Colonel.

For my Camden friends in South Carolina. I also got a chance to tell the Senator that my "second home" was Camden to which he was happy to hear. Related, "oh, our little Charleston."

Wish I could share details about the meeting, but just can't. Oh man, just a fascinating discussion with lots of political pressure on the Directors... they did great by the way. Another proud day for me in Afghanistan

Christmas Dinner

Okay, I'll admit it's a little late... better late than never?

A group of us went to the US Embassy cafeteria for dinner, arriving a little late so all the shrimp cocktail was gone. Bummer. But, it still proved a pleasant evening with this most gracious and diverse group of colleagues. Typhoid hit me later in the week so I was still feeling pretty good here.

Merry Christmas?

New Discoveries

First there is my wonderful and most talented interpreter, Asa. Below I am pictured with some pretty powerful Afghan police leaders at a social function. From left are the Directors: Criminal Investigations, Major Crime Task Force, Me, Anti-Crime Police, and Police Finance.

My new discovery is not only the challenges of interpretation but of semantics. Asa tells me there are only 4000 words in the Dari language, so when she interprets for me at meetings with these powerful men she must compile what I'm saying and interpret my intent as there is oftentimes no literal translation. We've learned to discuss what I plan to talk about before meetings. I not only tell her what I intend to say but also my desired outcomes for the meeting. Spontaneous meetings are not good for us as it precludes this strategizing. Then when I speak to these gents, I ensure I look them straight in the eye so they can read my body language and I theirs. Many in the coalition speak directly to the interpreter which I find impolite. I speak slowly with many hand/arm gestures using non-complex words... these guys understand more English than they let on and it also proves for more cleaner interpretation by Asa. It's working for us and I believe we're now a stronger team for it. Sorry, that's the DISCOVERY

I've had many of the Afghans I work with compliment me in my communications to them because I do speak slowly, with smaller words and communicate with more than just words. In turn, they are getting more comfortable speaking their broken English around me. I take this as the ultimate compliment because anything outside of perfect to them is a display of vulnerability. This technique is also opening more doors for me, a good thing for my efforts and it's proving helpful for them too. Most importantly, we all communicate better which contributes to their continued development. In the end, their development equates to our (US/NATO) withdrawal from this country and that's the purpose of my existence here.

While I'm not too thrilled about my quality of life in Afghanistan, my work is offsetting that. I do love my work over here. Not sure if that part is coming through for you.

I will share at a later date how we're evolving in humor and "stories" to get our points across.

So Many Ways to Get Around

#1: I've seen up to five people on a single motorcycle, but that's normally young guys. Loved this family photo. Have seen this a few times with a lady in a burka but have yet to capture it.

#2: I just love the strength I see in the woman walking alongside her husband, I assume that of course. As I've shared with you before, walking is the primary mode of travel in Kabul.

#3: Got chills when this guy caught me capturing a picture of him... he was not happy about a foreigner taking his photo. Fortunately, our van was faster than his horse and I do not believe he was armed.

#4: Was thrilled to find a tractor in the midst of the city, although it wasn't a John Deere. Thought the diversity in this one was worthy of the blog

#5: Just love the way they transport their sheep. First, I thought what a beautiful animal! Then I noted the "cool dude shades" on the very western motorcycle rider... you will rarely find an Afghan wearing sun glasses. Then the traditional Afghan man in the background.

Enjoy!!!

Afghan Weapons Storage Area

Turns out the US spent a whole lot of money building these storage area for weapons and ammunition; unfortunately, they have been rendered unsafe for reasons I do not understand.

The man in the picture is repairing a cook stove inside one of these storage areas... I think he is just beautiful and thought I'd share the pictures with you taken by my friend Harry.

IF YOU AIN'T AMMO, YOU AIN'T SHI..

Just Liked This Picture

Finally got into my blog, but now not much time before heading off to work. So, thougt I'd just share this picture just because of it's diversity. I also wanted to reassure all that I am well, except for the gawd awful quality of air we're now experiencing. But, rumor has it that it may rain/snow in the next couple of days which we all hope will bring relief.

Hugs to all... I miss you.

View of Kabul, Afghanistan

Kabul is one of 34 Provinces (states) in Afghanistan as well as its largest and capital city. Estimates say population is now over 3,000,000 people, urban sprawl out of control. City planning is apprarently non-existent. After some thought, I realize this is a most logical phenomenon given:

• The country has been at war for over 30 years and most of the fighting occurs in the rural areas.
• Kabul has offered a more secure environment for many years now. Of course that's a relative concept here.
• Jobs, even menial jobs are available. And, given the Afghan sense of generosity, panhandling is considered an income source here.
• Schools, universities, medical care, television, housing, electricity (intermittent), and even the internet exist

Whether in America or anywhere else in the world, we all want better for our children. Kabul offers opportunities for families, so they continue to come. I'm just not sure how much more this city can absord. Listening to my Afghan friends/colleagues, the immediate concern right now is draught which they believe will prove devastating in the very near future. Already, air tests show that 27% of the air content is fecal matter... my sinuses can validate that statistic.

Afghan Lunch

Thought I'd share a couple of lunch stories... no martini lunches here.

Picture #1: Luncheon for one of the military guys heading home. Served: Dirty rice (brown rice, not literally although I'm not betting on that) and a big old lamb shank, very traditional. In the picture I'm sharing with Lieutenatn Malave... a great young Air Force officer whose cute little Lieutenant wife is with him over here too, their 1 year old daughter living with Gramma in Puerto Rico. This meal, we ate with our hands in the traditional way. I don't particarly like that, but I was a guest and behaved as my Mother taught me.

Picture #2: Started as a meeting in the Director, Afghan Anti-Crime office to discuss biometrics (you're on your own for that one, google it if you wish). The US has spent a whole lot of money over here to develop a biometrics capability and now they want to see results. The high ranking civilian (2nd to right) was sent to get that message across. So, as the discussion was going strong in the Director's office, he informed us we were going to a local restaurant for lunch. He should have said banquet. So, we all walked over the restaurant located on what we call "Chicken Street" not far from the Ministry. Needless to say, there an impressive entourage of Afghan security forces walking us back/forth and safeguarding us during lunch. Here's what was served.

• A mango/yogurt drink they called juice... more like a milkshake. They then told me to add apple juice which I found strange but did as I was told. Oh my, delicious
• Variety of amazing flat breads
• Spicy bean soup... just delicious
• "Mantu"... my favorite. This is like a dim sum/large tortellini. It's filled with spiced ground lamb, and served in a spiced yogurt sauce with a type of bean
• Afghan rice, a white saffron rice with shredded carrots and yellow peppers and raisins
• An array of kabobs: beef, chicken, lamb and then a variety of other cooking style of the same... oh my, all delicious. Each was served on a large serving tray and there was lots of yogurt for dipping. It just kept coming
• Dirty rice, no clue what's in it but delicious
• Fruits: asian pear, orange

We took the above picture after our gluttonous lunch. That's me in the middle, Director of Criminal Investigation to my right; Director of Anti-Crime to my left, then Mr. Tyson, then Chief, Biometrics Anwar. Standing to left: Chief of Forensics, Ayaz and Lt Col Cris M who works biometrics for the coalition. This was not a cheap lunch; however, I never saw money exchange hands which concerns me. Still, an amazing dining experience I'll never forgot and probably never finishing digesting.

Sorry for the delay in blogs. I picked up a spot of the typhoid, but cleared that up pretty quick with some serious antibiotics. Then, I couldn't get the blog site to open up because our internet has been stupid slow of late. Somehow snuck in this morning.

BIG BLOG HUG TO MY GOOD FRIEND MARY RYAN, recovering from major knee surgery back in my old Alexandria, VA neighborhood. A most speedy recovery to you dear friend.