Arrived Amman Jordan

Well, our long awaited trip to Jordan and Israel is now over and my sister Mauria and I are back to our own digs. So, thought I'd share some highlights on the trip with you for the next few blogs. But as we all know, things change so don't hold me to this.

Given all that was going on in Egypt a couple of weeks ago, I was a little apprehensive about bringing my sister and mother of five into Jordan given the potential for unrest; however, she never hesitated. So, we pressed ahead with plans (procured some travel insurance). Proved a wise decision as Jordan was and remains most stable. They appear to love their King whose pictures are everywhere throughout the country.

Mauria and I met up at the Amman Airport (Queen something after King Hussein's 3rd wife killed in a plane accident). The top picture was my first sighting of Mauria and also our Jordan driver Jamil. Of note during this 1 1/2 day visit to this city included an amazing meal hosted in a lovely restaurant by Wael, a friend of a friend. Besides being a most gracious man, I learned he worked with USAID (State Dept) to facilitate the building and utilization of greenhouses. I was thrilled sharing ideas about alternative heating sources and other concepts Teena has taught me. Poor Mauria.

The next day, we were driven around the town for a relatively short tour. Not much to see but housing and government buildings. Except for the Roman Coloseum which we found fascinating and incredibly well maintained. You can see people in the top right corner to help with perspective on size. We were both pretty tired so opted to keep it another restful day to do some sister bonding. Next day early, Israel bound

US Embassy in Kabul Last Blog for a While

These are pictures of the US Embassy in Kabul, it was a rough day for me. The bronze colored glass in front is just gorgeous and I speculate bomb/bullet proof. As you can imagine, security around the Embassy compound is "strong", but fortunately I have full access except to this building. Interestingly, Americans do not have access to an embassy in a foreign country which I haven't figured yet.

Kabul finally got it's first significant moisture in the last couple of days, the most I've seen since I arrived in July. Turns out they have not mastered the concept of drainage here... roads, sidewalks, everything flooded once snow melted during a warm spurt yesterday. Asa and I decided to go to lunch outside the Ministry (just outside and in a secured zone) to a restaurant where we know the food is good and safe. Anway, in route I stepped on what I thought was a rock in a puddle which proved a most faulty surmise. Turns out it was a floating piece of ice over a sewage drain and I went in up over my knee. A very nice shopkeeper standing by grabbed me by the arm (very unusual for an Afghan man to help a strange woman) and stopped a potentiall much worst disaster. I think I've told you about the absolute filth in these open sewers. So, I eventually got back to my compound and sprayed my foot/leg, shoe, sock with Lysol didn't know what else to do. I'm sure it's psychosomatic, but I can still feel tingling in that foot. Serious YUK.

Well, I'm heading off to Amman, Jordan tomorrow where I will meet my sister Mauria for a couple of weeks touring, eating, being clean, having fun. Oh ya, Mauria tells me learning and experiencing history too. The trip should generate some good blogs upon my return. And please don't worry, I have established personal contacts with the Jordanian family of a good friend of a friend. In the event anything does happen, we will have safehaven in their home. The family is spread throughout Jordan.

Peace be with you all and we'll reconnect in a couple of weeks

Brave Women in Afghanistan

#1: This is a portrait of Malala Kakar. She was one of Afghanistan's first police officers and an advocate against crimes against women. She served in the force after the Taliban were thrown out of power. But, they found her and killed her. There are many women in the police forces here who tell me they are in constant fear for their lives and the lives of their families because of the work they do... they keep doing it.

#2: A group of women recently graduated from the Afghan National Police Academy. Note many of them look oriental. They are probably from the Hazara tribe, decendents of the Mongolians who invaded Afghanistan thousands of years ago. If you ever happen to read THE KITE RUNNER (I'm reading it now), it talks about the extreme prejudice against the Hazaras. Further, they tend to be Shi'a in a primarily Sunni country. Asa is Hazara which is why her family fled to Iran when the Taliban took power in Kabul.

#3: These are two women speakers at a large conference I recently attended in downtown Kabul. The one on the left is a member of the Afghan Parliament, who rambled well beyond her designated time without really getting to any definitive point. She did not progress the cause of women before a most august audience, I would have to say the opposite. She did however wear a beautiful coat with matching scarf. The woman on the right is Shafika, she heads the Human Rights and Gender Affairs Department within the Ministry of Interior (Police). While not nearly as well coiffed, she represented Afghan women well. Also speaking was a woman who leads a most successful and forthright non-profit organization that advocates women's rights here. My international colleagues speculate her effectiveness will probably result in assassination. I was awed by her words and saddened by theirs.

#4: This is our woman's international coalition "gang:. To the left is Marleen a police officer from the Netherlands temporarily assigned to the European Union Police. She is quite the colorful character; however, if there's ever a battle I want her near me. To my right is Apolonia. She is is a retired police officer from the Netherlands working Gender Affairs, Family Violence, and Juvenile Crimes. She has served as an investigator for the International Criminal Court in Bosnia and Africa in the past... a most admirable woman from whom I learn a lot. We're also friends. I'm the one in the middle. I'd like you to consider us brave too; however, not compared to our Afghan colleagues.

Finally!!!!!

We are FINALLY getting some moisture here in Kabul, hoping it will clear out the air. I'm hoping it will relieve my friend Chaput from having to send me more sinus cleansing packs.

Top picture, I thought captured two things: the snow/rain and picture of man wearing traditional tribal chief (forgot the name in Dari) coat. Okay, it's all about the coat. President Karzai is often seen wearing one of these coats and Asa tells me it's uncool for men not in a senior leadership position (tribal chief types) to wear one.

Bottom picture shows Massoud Circle (that's a picture of Massoud in the windshield). It's rare to see so few vehicles clogging this central point in Kabul. The moisture was a mix of snow and rain and snow and rain and... you get the point.

So, Asa and I had to leave the primary Ministry compound today for a meeting, walking down a dirt road. I'm used to the heavy, let's call it dust, on this route; however, today it was just mud and ruts. I had given Asa my LL Bean duck boots a couple of months ago which she most astutely wore to work today. Me, I had my regular walking shoes on... not such a good idea. Just covered in, let's call it, mud at the end of our travails of not slipping, sprayed by passing cars (that would not be good at all), or drowning in ruts filled with water. We're talking serious ruts.

Sadly, the rain we're getting is just not enough. They say it would need to rain hard for about two weeks to make up for dangerously low groundwater levels. Not sure I want to experience heavy rains though. The open sewers and dirt roads could not manage the lighter rain/snow we had today never mind heavy stuff.

Tomorrow is Superbowl Monday, starting at 4 AM. A bunch of guys are getting together to watch the game in our common room so I better get to bed early. I'm sure they will not be quiet so must plan to be up at 4 with them. Some of you know how very much I love football -- NOT!! They do not show commercials here which I always find the best part of the Superbowl. Sorry Ma.

Afghan Ambulance

Seriously, this is the US Embassy Ambulance. I'm sure the Ambassador will not happy when he discovers someone stole his golf cart : -}.

I'm getting emails from many concerned about my safety/security given all that's going on in Egypt. To date, there has been no spillover here in Afghanistan and it is not expected either. And if there is, look at the modern medical capabilities here!!! No problem.

Mauria and I are still planning our dream vacation starting Feb 15 to Jordan and Israel. While I'm willing (and do) to take risks with me, know I would not with her. My good friend over here Rick has contacted a good buddy who is dual citizen; US/Jordan, and we're getting names/phone numbers of various family members spread throughout Jordan. So, just in case we have safehavens. Also, from what all my contacts here tell me... Jordan remains most stable. Israel is always under pressure from someone in the region, so they're set up for it.

I hope all in NH have dug out from the last storm... we need it desperately here. Did get some rain/snow the other day but not enough. And, I'm sure there will be blog on it soon.

This blog dedicated to my beautiful sister Mauria for her courage and perserverence.