Sunday, May 22, 2011

Celebration in an Afghan Home

Asa and her family were most gracious to invite me to their Big EID celebration. This holiday is held 70 days after Ramazan and like EID from previous blog (held at the end of Ramazan) celebrates Abraham's great belief in God's will and obeyed by nearly sacrificing his only and much loved son Isaac. Big Eid, from what I could determine, is a time of family gathering and celebration so I was quite honored to be invited. It was also the first opportunity for many in Asa's family to directly interact with "normal" Americans, Americans not armed to the teeth traveling in full body armor and armored vehicles. The above picture is of is Asa and her Mother prior to the luncheon, a social time which I thoroughly enjoyed.


Asa's mother was not too thrilled that a guest help prepare lunch; however, I was so very excited to learn about preparing Oshak. Think dim sum with ground lamb, parsley, garlic and other spicings. A spicy yogurt sauce is then poured over the stuffed noodles. Here I'm pictured with Asa's sister and her 7 year old son who took a great liking to me, needless to say he had me wrapped around his little finger in no time. They all got a charge out of my ineptness in making these dumplings; however, recognized my great skill (in my mind anyway) toward the end. No table or countertops, the food is prepared on top of a table cloth on the floor. My legs were cramping something fierce.


This large room Asa is most graciously sitting in serves as family and dining room. Most Afghan family homes do not have furniture as we know it, they use only pillows to sit on as you can see in this picture. Isn't she stunning? You already know how competent she is.

The food, oh the food. It was all amazing. They do not do courses of food but serve everything in one setting which I find much more cordial and keeps the women sitting through the entire meal. Served? A delicious bean soup, salads, jasmine rice, lamb chops, the Oshak which I helped prepare, and various spicings (spicy) to add to the foods. Oh my, I ate waaaay too much and only wished I could eat more.

After lunch, other members of the family came by for a visit which proved very entertaining for all of us. They were mesmerized sitting in a room with two Americans who proved most cordial... a great opportunity to demonstrate what Americans are truly all about. Americans not armed, covered in body armor and invading homes. After the visit, I concluded the importance of such gatherings and believe current coalition policy on social interaction should be changed. I've attended many formal events with the Afghan elite at the various embassies and sadly aware of coalition members interacting in illegal bars and houses of prostitution; however, it is social events like this one which will have greatest impact on a lasting peace. It's been over 10 years since we've been in Afghanistan and we must adjust our policies if we are to have long term impact.

Sadly, when we arrived via taxi (also prohibited) and then departed we had to maintain a very low profile as we did not want the neighbors seeing Asa's family hosting coalition guests. The Taliban truly are everywhere and they particularly hate Hazaras (Asa's tribe), many of whom were slaughtered when the Taliban initially entered Kabul. Further, it was against our rules to visit with Afghan families. Sadly, I can only tell these stories now that I am out of the mission. While this appears to contradict my previous push for policy change, I believe greater interaction inside Afghan society (restaurants, shops, homes) would lead to this behavior becoming the norm thus negate the threat on either side. Understand, the threat will always be there.

UPDATE ON ADVENTURE: I will be home June 1.

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Orthodox Christians in Jerusalem



I was captivated by the throngs of Othodox Christians in Jerusalem, moreso than the many statues, paintings and beautiful churches. I recognized many coming from poor countries and thought about what they sacrificed to visit this holiest of places. While I found their worshiping practices a little extreme for me, their overt and passionate love of God was inspiring.






Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Professional Development Outing









Sorry, it's been a while but I hope that I'm back in rhythm. This day proved a most insightful one for me as I saw my Director in a whole new light. That morning he came into my office and asked that my interpretor translate a briefing he built for presentation that afternoon at the Police Academy for a professional development seminar for Provincial (state level) Police leaders. Upon initial viewing, I observed it was a complex power point brief even though it was all in Dari. In the end, our very short notice effort to translate the slides proved inept. My interpretor was not nearly as competent with Power Point as the original author and remember they write right to left so this proved a most daunting task. I crammed editing the document the best I could but it just didn't jibe with me. I did recognize the strategic and complex concepts which I believed at the time was not a good match to his target audience. Ahh, wrong again.

So, off we went to the Police Academy right before lunch. While there were other coalition members attending, I was the only one invited in for lunch as the guest of the Director. Actually, it made me felt kinda special. After lunch, we sat through three brutally boring presentations, at one point you couldn't hear the speaker above the chatter in the room. I took a much needed nap. The Director was the last speaker of the day and I was most concerned. He proved captivating, totally engaging his audience and generating much discussion. The lecture went well beyond the allotted time, but that was only because of discussions. While I did not understand a word being spoken, I could see the excitement in the room and passion for the subject. I do know it was about the Afghan culture/traditions and how criminals were taking advantage. I was captivated.

Below are pictures from this outing. Interestingly, it started out with me taking a picture of the director and his junior executive officer. Naseer (the driver) than insisted I join in. Then others and even more. Of course I had to show the pictures to all who thoroughly enjoyed.

After this, we proceeded on to the Academy Commandant's office, once again me being the lone coalition member. There were about 7 senior police officials present, all very passionate about about whatever they were talking about... once again, discussions in Dari. Another interesting experience in Afghanistan