A MOST INTERESTING DAY PART II

Above is a picture of the Director and obviously me on our outing... as it turns out the Director's executive officer did have a camera and took a picture of us at Qarga.

So, there I was leaving Qarga along with the Director, his driver and executive assistant returning to what I believed was the Ministry. Wrong YET AGAIN! In route, the Director told me in his broken English "We will go to my home for lunch"... he didn't ask. Off to yet another new adventure into a world I had no knowledge. Once again, the Director was on his phone, the two up front were chatting away, and I returned to my sense of awe at what I was seeing. At some point he looked up and started to speak with me again. During our conversation I discovered he had 9, yes 9, children with his only wife (remember they are allowed up to 4 in Afghanistan). He also related that his wife was out of town so she would not be there to meet us. Yes, I'll admit to being nervous once again but put my trust in God and my gut that told me he was a good man.

We ultimately arrived to the Director's home, which as it turns out is quite close to the US Embasssy. Not what I had in mind. On the exterior, it was a very modest apartment complex even under Afghan standards, Soviet style grey cinder block and about five stories. The two aides stayed outside in a security shack while we proceeded into the complex and climbed up five stories... the Director was obviously proud as he told me at least three times "this is my home". We ultimately got to his front door and then a most unexpected thing happened when we walked into his home (building suspense with long pause here; wait, wait).

Very soon after entering the home, a two year old comes running up yelling what I assume is "Daddy, Daddy" in Dari to the Director and throws her body into his open arms with him scooping her up so they can exchange kisses... my heart melted and immediately felt at ease. The second daughter, I'm guessing about 17, welcomed me to her home with grace and in English, and showed me into what I believe is the family den/living room. Soon what I guess is a 9 year old beautiful girl and a 7 year old boy enter into the scene.... they were openly curious and the 9 year old girl held my hand to show me to my seat. Seat being an operative word.

The den I was led into had no furniture outside of an old box style TV with rabbit ears on a basic TV stand. The room was about 10' x 20' with simple red oriental style carpets (nothing expensive) completely covering the floor... the room was was freshly painted in a pastel pink shade with very "festive" lace curtains covering the windows at the front of the room. Along the sides of the room were overstuffed pillows matching the decor. The Director took his seat on the floor with TV remote in hand and two year old in lap, with me and the 9 year old girl, Tamerone (or something close) across from them. Soon the 17 year old brought in some chai (tea) and a plate of nuts and dried fruit... very traditional. I'm thinking now, this is a most pleasant lunch. So, there we were sitting and enjoying the TV shows (all in Dari of course) and what I thought was lunch for about 30 minutes.

Knock on the door and it's the in-laws, brother and father. The brother was dressed in western style clothing and haircut, close shave to match. The father was traditionally attired in what we tacky Americans call Man Jama's (tunic style loose top and baggy pants... cotton, not flannel) very clean and well pressed with hat to match. He had a traditional Aghan distinguished haircut and a very well trimmed beard, impeccably groomed. I am introduced to both who were most friendly and I believe surprised to find me in the house. They disappear along with the Director and I return to my seat to continue watching TV and drinking chai.

Another knock at the front door and the Director closes the door to the den and I hear him answer the front door. No clue what's going on. The 17 year old then enters back into the den for a table cloth stored in the built in china cabinet. Soon the Director enters to collect plates and silverware assuring me all is well. Now, I haven't been to the bathroom in a very long time and have had lots of tea so I wander out of the den... the Director was astute enough to point me to the bathroom. He can be gracious. A most interesting bathroom... it's about 5' x 10' and includes a sink (with too many toothbrushes to count in a single cup), western style toilet, some bizarre looking washing machine and a shower head mounted on the wall in the corner... no shower curtain or any other separation. Now remember, this is a family with 9 children. So, I complete my deed and head back to the den... Tamerone is waiting for me.

I return to watching TV and drinking chai. I am then invited into the "dining room". This is a matching room to the den only no TV and the walls are a pastel peach color. There in the center of the room is the table cloth on the floor, plates/silverware distributed along the edges and an amazing array of food in the center... they had obviously ordered takeout. I am invited to sit at the head of the room, everyone else is already seated. The food: First layer on the floor is a flat bread that has to be, no lie, about 4' x 2'. On top of the bread is an array of kabobs (that's what they call barbequed meat) "sheep" with bone, grilled chicken, and fish; Afghan style salad and a beautiful bowl of fresh fruit. Then in front of each place setting is a bowl of steaming hot soup. I start with the soup, no clue what it was just know it was delicious. I then dig into the fish, chicken and sheep... all seasoned differently and to die for. I avoid the raw salad (typhoid and all). They keep putting more on my plate and all seven of us are speaking openly with each other... me not so much as I don't speak Dari. However, they went out of their way to include me. It was just a wonderful event and I was now quite full.

The Director suddenly announces it is time to go, we've now been in his home over two hours. I'm rushing to the front door to put my shoes back on and render my thanks and goodbyes to all. Then, as if they were not generous enough the 17 year old comes up and presents me with what I think is a most beautiful traditional Afghan necklace, placing it around my neck. She then thanks me... yes, she's thanking me... for sharing her home with the family. I'm speechless, overcome with emotion. The Director then leads me out and we most casually jump back into the SUV and return to the Ministry where we part ways. END of STORY

Sorry, this was a long one and it's been a challenge to get published given the intermittent internet connection back at the safehouse. But, promise some more cool experiences coming your way soon and this time it includes pictures!!!