Monday, December 27, 2010

Afghan Criminal Justice System



I recently attended a national level news reporter's interview with my Director hosted by the US led "rule of law" General. The interview was focused on a new Afghan concept to build rule of law centers... imagine an assembly line factory, but this one is for processing criminals/terrorists/suspects. I'll explain the criminal justice system.
Criminals are arrested and brought to the center where they are interrogated (not tortured, questioned). The police report then goes to a prosecutor in the next room who determines if there is enough evidence to go to trial pushing it to a judge in the next room or releasing the individual. There are courtrooms and defense attorneys in the next room/building, where a trial is held and the individual is adjudicatated... released or go to prison. There is a holding facility and prison within the center's complex/compound. Then, there are various levels of custody for those convicted (max, medium, minimum). The compound is very secure as threats to judges and prosecutors are continual and real. So, these folks and their families live inside the secured compound.
After the interview, the US General hosted a dinner for his staff and the many visitors working in his area that day. One of these visitors was a Provincial Governor pictured above. He governs in one of the high threat provinces (states)... what an impressive man. At the end our extended discussion over dinner, I approached him and asked if he was willing to move to NH to run for governor... I was serious and promised to get him the political backing he needed. He was (or at least left the impression) a man of great wisdom and ethics who truly cared about bringing peace to his province which would allow a much higher quality of life for his citizens. Pragmatic too.

Panoramic Views of Afghanistan









Flying over Afghanistan I was just amazed by the vast and barren terrain. It looks like a huge dustbin from afar. So, thought I'd share with you the best I could.


Amazingly as you will see in the center picture, they do grow crops (look for splash of green). Of course these are probably poppy plants (think heroine) which is sadly Afghanistan's greatest cash crop despite billions invested by the international community to eradicate. But, I digress.



We are now in severe draught conditions, everything here in Kabul is covered in dirt. Please note I did not say dust or even sand. It's just dirt everywhere: in the air, on the ground, everywhere inside the offices/safe houses all in despite of daily cleaning, and most importantly in my sinuses. Thank you again Chaput for the sinus saline packs to flush them out every night and sometimes mornings too... won't go into details on this one because it's just too gross. Branden, you would like this story but will save it for when I visit you in Auburn.




Given my grueling work schedule, I'm changing my blog tactics. I've decided to write shorter blogs with more pictures and will try hard to get them out more often. Note the word TRY.

Sunday, December 26, 2010

Merry Christmas Finally


Merry Christmas All My Wonderful Friends and Family,
I apologize for the lapse in blog submissions and can't even use the holidays as an excuse. No, just work. Described my big "project" with my Afghan Ministry colleagues in a previous blog... well, that became quite consuming for me and for them. However, the result was most inspiring for me and I believe insightful/motivating for them. In the end, it should prove a great impetus to further development. All my training, education and experience finally paid off. Of course, this "success" has led to other intense endeavors. More on that later but now Christmas.
The pictures were taken by my now disposed of camera at the European Union Police (EUPOL) compound... a "traditional" Christmas Mart like you would find in Europe. Food booths were set up by the various representing nations along with gluwein (hot wine) which fortunately I do not care for so passed on that and other offers of imbibing. All in all, a most pleasant evening. And, it was Asa's first Christmas party. It proved interesting trying to explain the concept of Santa which I went to great lengths to do. After many stories/explanations she asked: "Isn't Christmas a celebration of Jesus' Birthday"... she was so very right.
I did have Christmas Eve off because it was Friday, my normal day off. I slept most of the afternoon away and then went to bed early. It was a good day. We got word at the last minute that Christmas was a low operations tempo day and I took advantage. Woke up early to open presents in my room that were sent from home (thank you again). Then went over for coffee with the normal gang, coming home to work on some documents in my room. Took even more naps and then went to the US Embassy cafeteria for Christmas dinner with some of the wonderful folks I work with. It proved a day of cotemplation to consider all the wonderful blessings bestowed on me. I seem to do that alot here.
MERRY CHRISTMAS and A MOST JOYOUS AND PROSPEROUS NEW YEAR FOR ALL... BIG BLOG HUGS FOR ALL

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Big Project

I am working a pretty big project these days with my Afghan colleagues, these being three of the key Gents I'm working with. I find their work processes interesting so I thought you would too.


There are large conference tables in many of the key officials' offices, but they rarely use them prefering instead to gather around a series of couches with coffee tables in front. Problem is that there isn't much room to work on the coffee tables as they are laden with chai (green tea) along with an array of nuts, candies, dried fruit and cookies. Each official has what we call a "chai boy" (sometimes girl) who initially serve and then replenishes throughout the meeting. I'm told this person is usually an acquaintance of the senior official and is paid out of pocket; it's charity. I never eat the snacks (everyone just digs hands in: think TYPHOID) but it's just not polite not to drink the chai. That, and I really like chai. I just remain in denial about how they wash the cups or where they get the water from, hoping they at least boil it.

Right now, I am helping the anti-crime police team build organization charts which is proving a daunting task only because they want to make it more difficult than it has to be. Power point and the mechanics of putting chart to paper is also proving a challenge and requires significant oversight. This is a very important police development effort, designed by me, to define their organization, responsibilities and synchronization of operations, personnel, support, intelligence, training. Don't want to go into detail but let's just say I'm finally using all my training, education, and experience working this one project.

Oh ya, I also wanted you to know I've been moved up to a higher level in the Ministry hierarchy. I am now mentoring the Director of Afghan Anti-Crime Police who overseas many organizations to include Criminal Investigations. And no, there is no more money in it for me but the right level for me to be working at. Still working with a series of international and US advisors within the organization which can also prove daunting. Given all this, the blog entries have had to slow down some, finding I can only do snippets at a time.... but snippettng away.

"Mele Kalikimaka to all and to all a good night"

Friday, December 10, 2010

The Vans

This picture depicts the vans we travel in throughout primarily Kabul on a daily basis. Right now, they are lined up along the road outside where our safehouses are located... mine is in a doorway between the two trees. As you can see, there is no shortage of vans in the morning to take us to the military compound where our primary offices are. However, I normally walk with my friend Rob and sometimes others who join us for intriguing conversation.


The military, when moving outside their very secured compound, always travel in a minimum of two armored vehicles with combat certified drivers and of course in full combat gear. These convoys must be scheduled and a patrol brief completed before departing the compound with everyone in the vehicle having a specified responsibility in the event of just about anything.



My procedures? Jump into one of these vans, which later in the morning are lined up outside the military compound, and head off to wherever I am going for the day. Our vans look like about 40% of the other vehicles in Kabul, the company calls them low profile vehicles. I believe most of our drivers have a driver's license, but wouldn't put my paycheck on it. We do wear armored vests but not helmets and as I've already shared with you, no guns. This combination all contributes to what we call "low profile travel." It actually seems to work the way it's intended and sooooooo much easier to arrange transport than the military. It's amazing what they cannot do because of transport challenges so they stay inside the secured compounds waaaaay too much. I actually like the freedom this procedure allows and actually feel safer in our vans than when I travel in the military vehicles.

I wish you all a most joyous Christmas holiday. Discreet signs of Christmas are randomly popping up around the military compound now, a good thing for so many. Many of the guys in the company who've been here over the years are heading home in the next couple of days, while us new guys are holding down the fort. Just think how good Christmas will be for me next year when I'm settled in back home again.

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Fond Memories











I never realized how dirty I was until I got clean in Dubai. Indeed, my hair really isn't like straw and squeaks when clean. My face and body... clean. I brushed my teeth using the water from the faucet. The carpets and walls and BATHROOM... all clean. There truly is a story behind each of these pictures.


#1: View from the balcony of my room. That would be the Persian Gulf you are looking at. Never imagined the waters of the Persian Gulf being so very crystal clean and a perfect temperature... all with sandy beaches. Sadly, I saw more than one woman in full black covering (to include her eyes) accompanying her husband and children who were all in beachwear. Of course, she was the one carrying all the beach gear while they played their way to their beach "spot". During the heat of the day, I retreated from the beach back to my clean room to read a wonderful novel my cousin Lynda sent to me... still reading it in Afghanistan.


#2: You're probably picking up that I like camels. Caught this picture of a local entrepeneur who gave camel rides on the beach. No, I did not take one. Saving that adventure for my next trip in February to Jordan. Yes, you'll probably see more camels then.


#3: Sunset on the beach in front of the hotel. Self-Explanatory.


#4: Needless to say, this one has a story behind it and yes, I'm going to share it with you... you don't have to read it. Anyway, one of my Army Colonel buddies over here had a bet with his buds that he could get a picture of a woman in a burka having a cocktail... he asked me to help him win that bet. So, I borrowed a burka (what you see me wearing) and had Jim take this picture. An afterthought: fill the bathtub with water for a wet burka contest picture with glass of wine. Tried finding one of them "umbrella" drinks for the picture, but they're not at all available in Dubai so had to settle for the wine. Needless to say, it did the trick and my Army buddy was thrilled... I'm now known here as "The Burka Babe". Something unexpected did happen to me during this charade. When I jokingly put the burka on, I was actually quite traumatized by it... something I just didn't expect. I'm not in the least claustrophobic and nor do I fear ever having to wear one of these for real, but just couldn't stand to have it on me. The experience is really hard to explain. My level of empathy for the many women over here who wear these has grown exponentially. I have decided to buy a burka before I depart Afghanistan to have my many friends/family back home experience this for yourselves. It is just awful beyond imagination.


Well, no more Dubai stories and I'm back in Afghanistan now. But hope to have many new adventures to share, nothing too exciting though.
Big blog hug goes out to my Girlfriend Michelle and her son Brendan for being such loyal readers and sender of breakfast coffee, clothes for the poor, and candy for my office. But mostly, just for being who you are.


Once again, your comments/feedback are most gratefully appreciated.

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Thanksgiving in Dubai







Never in my wildest dreams would I have imagined spending Thanksgiving in Dubai, but there I was. Given this peculiar situation one must ask oneself: "What do I do to celebrate Thanksgiving in Dubai?" Why, go on a desert safari of course. So, booked myself on a one day desert safari tour. And, that proved just as I had imagined; lots of sand and camels. I did learn a few things on this tour that none of us will ever need to remember, but will share with you anyway.

The Bedouins (historically desert nomadic tribes found throughtout this part of the world) no longer wander but live in government subsidized housing out in the desert, at least in Dubai. They live in walled compounds, with what appear very nice single family homes all with satellite dishes. Everything appeared most clean and the houses/walls are all whitewashed. There were sheep and camels in corales outside the compound. The tour guide told me the Bedouins do not wish to live in the cities but prefer the more secluded lifestyle as did their ancestors; however, they do prefer this new less harsh lifestyle. He also told me to earn a living they tend to drill a community water well (very difficult/expensive to do here because of the sand) which they use for their subsistence but also as a valuable commodity to sell. They transport water to local communities by water trucks.

Camel farms. We did stop to visit a couple of these. Camels were roving all over the area which led me to ask our guide the obvious question: "What makes them come home?" Well, the camel ranchers(?) keep the males and many of the babies in corals which keeps the female camels coming back... I've got to go back and talk to those ladies : -}. "Where's the profit in camels these days now that they are not used as a primary mode of transportation?" Camel milk is very good for making chocolate and has a very low fat content; as it turns out camel meat is quite edible although I never saw it on any menu in Dubai; and camel hide is used for making all kinds of clothing and blankets. Observe the way the camel is looking at me in picture #3 when I'm "walking like an Egyptian." Right after one of my tour friends took that picture she reached over and gave me a kiss on the cheek. She was amazingly sweet and gentle, scared the heck out of me when she did it though.
The rest of the tour pretty much encompassed four wheel driving on the sands, stopping to observe various sand landscapes and then found some shade behind a rock for a most pleasant picnic. All in all a pretty interesting day.
Upon my return back to the hotel, I donned my bathing suit and got to the beach before sunset to get in a good swim and then back to the hotel. There, I opened up one of the bottles of wine I bought at the duty free shop in the Dubai airport and ordered room service... nice dinner salad with slices of perfectly seasoned duck breast. Sat on my glorious king sized bed after a long hot shower, ate a wonderful dinner with a most pleasant glass of good bordeaux, watched a movie on a flat screen TV and fell asleep early.
During the day, I gave thanks for all the wonderful friends and family I have in my life and for the many other bounties bestowed on me. I also thanked God I was not in Afghanistan for Thanksgiving.