Spring Offensive

#1 Women in Taliban times and still in many parts of Afghanistan, outside of Kabul. While many women in Kabul still wear burkas (the blue all encompassing garment), they are now allowed to walk unaccompanied by male members of the immediate family.

#2 Taliban. Asa calls them "animals". While most Taliban are from the Pashtun tribe, not all Pashtun are Taliban. Indeed, I work with many Pashtuns and they are most gracious men.

It's spring in Afghanistan which means a resurgence of the Taliban. You may have read of late the Taliban are attacking police convoys and taking the young police hostage (or so we hope). To date, there have been at least 50 hostages. With the 50 men come uniforms, weapons, police radios and vehicles. That gives rise to great security concerns here in Kabul. Security is now pretty tight and we've been locked down on a few occasions. To date, no Taliban success; however, there is concern it's only a matter of time.

Unfortunately, Afghans who work for the government (particularly police and army) or associated with the coalition are at greatest risk. Two young police men I work with in the ministry have come to my office of late and very covertly shared their stories. One is being directly threatened because of his work with the coalition, which he understands. His consternation is that the threats are being posed against his wife and parents... he's scared for them. The other is from the Hazara (Mongolian descendents) tribe, and there is just no future here for him. He wants to join other members of his family who are already out of the country for good. I'm trying to help him through my contact at the UN Human Rights Commission (UNHCR); however, it's not looking good.

At this point we (the US) has invested very heavily in both the Afghan Army and Police and it's imperative to the future of this country to defeat this threat. To date, they've been successful here in Kabul but it's just not looking good in the outlying provinces, especially around the Pakistan border. I know our American young men and women are valiantly fighting out in those outlying areas along with many brave Afghans to prevent Taliban resurgence and I'm confident they'll prove successful in the end. Doesn't good always win over evil?

Gethsemani

Gesthsemani is located at the foot of Mount Olives in modern Jerusalem. It was in this most holy place that Jesus prayed the night after the last supper. And, it was from this his location he was betrayed by Judas and arrested. I found it a most solemn place, moreso than the many other Jerusalem landmards. The priest in the picture just amazed me with his concentration... lots of people (many loud) milling around and he never looked up from his prayers. Sure wish I knew his secret, well I do but I'm just not there.

Change in Plans

Having options in life is good, and I've taken advantage of mine of late. So, here's what's happening in my "Fun Adventure."

I am departing Afghanistan on April 25 for good. From here I will stay in Dubai for a couple of days to recover and then fly to the nation/island of Grenada which is located in the West Indies, Carribean. Will depart Grenada for home June 1. So, why am going there and not coming home? Three reasons for this decision:

1. The company I work for over here lost their government contract. The company who did win asked me to stay for more money; however, it was going to be an administrative and operational hassle so I opted out of the offer given #2 and 3 below.
2. Taxes. To qualify for a significant tax break on the income I have earned over here, I must remain outside of the US for at least 330 days. When I leave Afghanistan I will be at about 297. I also realized after my vacation to Jordan/Israel I needed time to "decompress" before coming home... ask Mauria, she can tell you.
3. Researched and contemplated various options for killing 30+ days. Considered Europe (have friends there), South America and others but none sounded very relaxing. Then my friend Beth connected me with her sister and husband who are anchoring their sailboat with some other international cruisers in the St. Georges (Grenada) bay. They helped me find the above pictured villa Mor-Gan. It's located on the bay, 2 bedrooms, private salt water pool... daily cleaning/laundry service. And, got it for a steal as this is off season. Now negotiating for a little island car.

So, if any of you out there have a great desire to visit Grenada (yes, the US invaded the island in the '80s I think to push out the Cubans) know you are welcome. Otherwise, I'll just sleep a whole lot, read, swim, and hopefully get some sailing in with Harold and Diana.

In the meantime, still lots of work here which is good for me... boring would be very bad.

St Patrick's Day

St Patrick's Day in in Afghanistan, an interesting concept for sure.

The Irish contingent working in EU Police collaborated with the Irish Embassy here to throw a suare. I convinced some of my embassy colleagues (they have an armored vehicle, weapons and are good guys) to attend along with a friend from DC serving here on temporary duty.

The event began with a lovely buffet of Irish stew and potato soup with some good Irish music and festivities. That didn't last long before the party was moved to the 2nd floor bar where the celebration really began and the Guiness was flowing freely. Represented in the bar were most EU countries along with a couple of Americans. It's true, everyone is Irish on St. Patricks Day. I believe the gents pictured above are Estonian.

Departed the EU compound back to the US Embassy relatively early. We then migrated to another party at their little pub called "The Duck & Cover", quite a crowd imbibing freely. From there, we moved to a USAID (Agency for International Development) sponsored party in one of the party tents. Oh my!!! While not imbibing myself, I had a ball!!! Lots of free spirit dancing and great fun, almost like one of our family weddings. Ultimately got home after midnight, waaaay past my bedtime but it was worth it. Forgot what it was like to have good fun.

A most memorable St Patrick's Day for sure.

Happy New Year and Birthday

The Afghan national sport is called Buzkashi. This game is played between two teams of horsemen competing to pick up a headless calf, goat or sheep carcass and throw it into a scoring circle. I'm told because of this sport and rugged terrain, the Afghans are considered the best horsemen in the world. And, it's played throughout the country on Nowruz

New Year celebrations at the Sahki Shrine here in Kabul

March 21 is the "Persian" New Year celebrated by the Afghan people... it's just like ours but without the drinking. Families get together and celebrate the New Year which intentionally begins on the first day of spring. What a beautiful concept, the plants coming back to life starts the new year. Over here it is now Solar Year (SY) 1390 not our chrisitan calendar 2011. Needless to say, yesterday was an Afghan national holiday; however, Sunday was pretty darn quiet around the ministry which allowed me time to catch up on administrative matters.

Unfortunately, any major celebratory holiday here brings with it an enhanced security threat. So far, so good; however, that increased threat will last a few more days. Needless to say, this drives increased head scarf wearing which gives me no great joy as you well know. Sorry Julia should have let you know this earlier so you and your gardening group could dress accordingly.

March 21 is also my brother Bob's birthday, so I'd like to pass on a happy birthday to him reminding him he is once again a year older than me. Also, I bought you a really cool birthday gift but it'll have to wait till I get home.

Jerusalem, Just Amazing

Ancient history juxtaposed with modern living, Jerusalem proved a most fascinating experience. While not a biblical scholar or for that matter one of ancient history, I did find the people living in and visiting this ancient city fascinating.

#1: Contentious Jewish settlement in a disputed Palestinian declared section

#2 & 3: I observed a great deal of piety and love of God, from Chrisitans, Jews and Muslims alike

#4: Holiest of Holies. This is the site where Abraham brought his beloved and only son to sacrifice at the behest of God. Given its significance for Christians, Jews, Pagans and Muslims alike, it has generated many a war for the possession of this small site. Currently, a beautiful Muslim mosque dominates the site... built over many layers of churches, temples.

More coming soon, promise.

Interesting Afternoon

Picture: Afghanistan's Minister of Interior, Mohammadi

It's getting on to the end of the day when the Director walks into my Ministry office saying, "Mrs. Gail we go to the Minister's office" and just as abruptly walks out. Grabbing jacket, scarf and trying to at least push my hair in place I chase him outside the building and we rush to the Minister's officer.

There was quite the crowd in the Minister's office (equivalent to a US cabinet Secretary) to include 3 of our power Generals, not General Petreaus but his deputy. The Minister was quite entertained by the fact the Director walked in with his mentor (a girl) and immediately engaged directly with me. The Minister's background is Army and it's obvious he and the Director have discussed this issue on many occasion. So, he asked me if my Director criticizes him for his Army background (this questioning went on for a few minutes). I'm looking around at the power Generals and they are not smiling, obviously wanting to move on in the discussion... a discussion I can not share with you but let's just say contentious. I stayed focused on the Minister when he asked me "so, am I right?". No time to think and I feel the glaring looks so respond, "Minister, all I remember the Director telling me is how smart and handsome you are". Pregnant pause, followed by gut wrenching laughter by the Minister and Director, not so much from the Generals.

Fortunately, the Minister refocused back to the issues of the meeting and away from me. I was most happy with the Director's answers to the many questions posed. Unfortunately, it generated much work for all afterward. I continue to work hard.

Birthday Party

It was a good day here in Afghanistan. My Afghan colleagues found our from our European Union Police partners that it was my birthday. Suddenly, we turned a forensics meeting into a kabob party. Both groups were incredibly gracious and I most appreciatived their kindness.

I then had a series of meeting back at the international compound and departed there later than normal.... of course, it was my birthday. I should have suspected something when so many people were checking departure time for our traditional walk over to dinner on Thursday night (Friday is off). So, finally got back to my housing compound and a gang larger than normal headed out for dinner and then back to the Connecticut House for movie night.

Much to my surprise, there were a group of folks waiting with candles and a most beautiful and tasty birthday cake... happy birthday song too. The cake was amazing, white and moist with light fudge dripping... I believe at least three layer and huge! The best part of the festivities was that the candles displayed "50", a very nice present from them. The movie convened and as usual, I fell asleep.

Woman's Day in Afghanistan

On March 7 I walk into our Ministry officer later than normal with a ton of things to do along with Asa. But Asa immediately gets on her cell which aggravates me because we have a lot to do... I was wishing I had my "evil eye" bracelet on but a dirty look had to do. She blew me off.

Next thing I know the Criminal Investigations Gents enter my office in mass to present a huge bouquet of fresh flowers to me. They were so very excited, I cried (those of you who know me realize what it takes for me to cry). They realized I would be at a conference on Woman's Day (8 March) so wanted to ensure I received them on time. As you can see in the first picture, Asa also received a bouquet but smaller than mine, yes, that was a gloat. The kindness of the Afghan people never cease to amaze me. Today is my birthday and you can bet I did not let them know about that one, they'd go crazy for my birthday and I know they have very limited income.

So, that's the big surprise for this blog as promised. Not very exciting to most, but it sure was for me. The flowers are now sitting in a lined small trash can... it's all I got. But, they're the most beautiful I've ever received.

Happy International Women's Day to all the women reading this blog!

Nazareth

To get across into Israel from Jordan was quite the adventure. Our Jordan driver Jamil coached us well on the process and the scams. Proved an uneventful experience; however, even I was taken aback by the extreme security measures. Worst than the old Check Point Charlie (going from West to East Berlin during the cold war). Full bags checked, a grilling by a beautiful but very intense Israeli customs/immigration woman. It took over 2 hours... and there were very few people there so I can't imagine what it's like during the heavy tourist/high heat season.

Our Israeli driver/tour guide was waiting for us with a cadillac and big smile when we finally got over to Israel and drove us to Jerusalem where we stayed for a few nights.

As it turns out, Nazareth is inside the the West Bank controlled by the Palestinian Authority. So, our Israeli driver dropped us off just outside the entry control point (as an Israeli Jew he is not allowed in) and Mauria and I went off for yet another new adventure. Security going into the West Banks was not as tight as expected.

Our Palestinian driver (Israeli citizen so he was free to drive between the two areas) took us into Nazareth and I was pleasantly surprised by what I saw: a bustling population, stores, and no apparent signs of gross poverty/war. The Nazareth where Jesus is born is most preserved and I imagine generates much income for the Palestinians so they are most protective. Our Palestinian guide spoke impeccable English and proved most knowledgeably even considering Mauria's very astute questioning. She was thrilled with him, I learned a lot. Pictures:

#1: The Franciscans (Catholic Monks) have bought up many of the religious sites over the years and have done just a beautiful job preserving them and telling the story giving access to all. This picture depicts St. Francis and I thought it most beautiful.

#2: For some reason, I just never thought about Mary nursing baby Jesus so this portrait just took me aback.

#3: Mauria standing before what is believed or could be believed to be the location of Jesus' birth. I learned stables here are not like our barns but were caves... that makes a lot of sense to me now too.

Big surprise for the next blog I think you'll find exciting, but you'll have to wait