Celebration in an Afghan Home

Asa and her family were most gracious to invite me to their Big EID celebration. This holiday is held 70 days after Ramazan and like EID from previous blog (held at the end of Ramazan) celebrates Abraham's great belief in God's will and obeyed by nearly sacrificing his only and much loved son Isaac. Big Eid, from what I could determine, is a time of family gathering and celebration so I was quite honored to be invited. It was also the first opportunity for many in Asa's family to directly interact with "normal" Americans, Americans not armed to the teeth traveling in full body armor and armored vehicles. The above picture is of is Asa and her Mother prior to the luncheon, a social time which I thoroughly enjoyed.

Asa's mother was not too thrilled that a guest help prepare lunch; however, I was so very excited to learn about preparing Oshak. Think dim sum with ground lamb, parsley, garlic and other spicings. A spicy yogurt sauce is then poured over the stuffed noodles. Here I'm pictured with Asa's sister and her 7 year old son who took a great liking to me, needless to say he had me wrapped around his little finger in no time. They all got a charge out of my ineptness in making these dumplings; however, recognized my great skill (in my mind anyway) toward the end. No table or countertops, the food is prepared on top of a table cloth on the floor. My legs were cramping something fierce.

This large room Asa is most graciously sitting in serves as family and dining room. Most Afghan family homes do not have furniture as we know it, they use only pillows to sit on as you can see in this picture. Isn't she stunning? You already know how competent she is.

The food, oh the food. It was all amazing. They do not do courses of food but serve everything in one setting which I find much more cordial and keeps the women sitting through the entire meal. Served? A delicious bean soup, salads, jasmine rice, lamb chops, the Oshak which I helped prepare, and various spicings (spicy) to add to the foods. Oh my, I ate waaaay too much and only wished I could eat more.

After lunch, other members of the family came by for a visit which proved very entertaining for all of us. They were mesmerized sitting in a room with two Americans who proved most cordial... a great opportunity to demonstrate what Americans are truly all about. Americans not armed, covered in body armor and invading homes. After the visit, I concluded the importance of such gatherings and believe current coalition policy on social interaction should be changed. I've attended many formal events with the Afghan elite at the various embassies and sadly aware of coalition members interacting in illegal bars and houses of prostitution; however, it is social events like this one which will have greatest impact on a lasting peace. It's been over 10 years since we've been in Afghanistan and we must adjust our policies if we are to have long term impact.

Sadly, when we arrived via taxi (also prohibited) and then departed we had to maintain a very low profile as we did not want the neighbors seeing Asa's family hosting coalition guests. The Taliban truly are everywhere and they particularly hate Hazaras (Asa's tribe), many of whom were slaughtered when the Taliban initially entered Kabul. Further, it was against our rules to visit with Afghan families. Sadly, I can only tell these stories now that I am out of the mission. While this appears to contradict my previous push for policy change, I believe greater interaction inside Afghan society (restaurants, shops, homes) would lead to this behavior becoming the norm thus negate the threat on either side. Understand, the threat will always be there.

UPDATE ON ADVENTURE: I will be home June 1.

Orthodox Christians in Jerusalem

I was captivated by the throngs of Othodox Christians in Jerusalem, moreso than the many statues, paintings and beautiful churches. I recognized many coming from poor countries and thought about what they sacrificed to visit this holiest of places. While I found their worshiping practices a little extreme for me, their overt and passionate love of God was inspiring.

Professional Development Outing

Sorry, it's been a while but I hope that I'm back in rhythm. This day proved a most insightful one for me as I saw my Director in a whole new light. That morning he came into my office and asked that my interpretor translate a briefing he built for presentation that afternoon at the Police Academy for a professional development seminar for Provincial (state level) Police leaders. Upon initial viewing, I observed it was a complex power point brief even though it was all in Dari. In the end, our very short notice effort to translate the slides proved inept. My interpretor was not nearly as competent with Power Point as the original author and remember they write right to left so this proved a most daunting task. I crammed editing the document the best I could but it just didn't jibe with me. I did recognize the strategic and complex concepts which I believed at the time was not a good match to his target audience. Ahh, wrong again.

So, off we went to the Police Academy right before lunch. While there were other coalition members attending, I was the only one invited in for lunch as the guest of the Director. Actually, it made me felt kinda special. After lunch, we sat through three brutally boring presentations, at one point you couldn't hear the speaker above the chatter in the room. I took a much needed nap. The Director was the last speaker of the day and I was most concerned. He proved captivating, totally engaging his audience and generating much discussion. The lecture went well beyond the allotted time, but that was only because of discussions. While I did not understand a word being spoken, I could see the excitement in the room and passion for the subject. I do know it was about the Afghan culture/traditions and how criminals were taking advantage. I was captivated.

Below are pictures from this outing. Interestingly, it started out with me taking a picture of the director and his junior executive officer. Naseer (the driver) than insisted I join in. Then others and even more. Of course I had to show the pictures to all who thoroughly enjoyed.

After this, we proceeded on to the Academy Commandant's office, once again me being the lone coalition member. There were about 7 senior police officials present, all very passionate about about whatever they were talking about... once again, discussions in Dari. Another interesting experience in Afghanistan

Holy Week

A few weeks ago I learned of the church at the Italian Embassy which just happens to be on my walking path between the coalition base I work on and my safe house... go figure. After attending my first mass, I was hooked. Here I met the Missionaries of Charities (Mother Theresa's Order), a group of beautiful Sisters from throughout the world valiantly running an Afghan orphanage. I was truly blessed to get to know them never having experienced such amazing kindness. The older woman at the lecturn is with a group of French order Sisters whom I unfortunately did not get to know.

Holy Week at the "Mother Catholic Church of Afghanistan" proved a most spiritual experience for me. The Bishop of Afghanistan was most inspiring, a man with a loving soul and great sense of humor. He also sings beautifully which really enhanced the masses for me. I was able to attend Holy Thursday, Good Friday and Easter Sunday masses. A great way to wrap up my Afghan adventure.

I will be trying to catch up on blogs while in Grenada when I have more time. Lots more experiences I've yet to share, the timing is just not as good.

All Is Good

I just wanted to share with you that I am fine here in Kabul. There was a big attack (assuming Taliban) on the Ministry of Defense today, I do not work at that Ministry. Although, I was at my Ministry and just hunkered down there until things settled down from the attack. Unfortunately, this successful attack will prove a big propoganda success story for the Taliban.

The picture is of my Afghan dressmaker/tailor/designer Nafisa (pseudonym), we're posing here with the beautiful wool coat she designed for me.

Love to all and I'm now down to 1 week remaining in Afghanistan.

Naseer

Naseer (bottom picture on the right) is the Director's driver and has rapidly become a friend. While he doesn't speak a word of English (my Dari is almost as limited) we somehow communicate, he is what we would call a "gentle giant".

One recent day I was waiting outside the building with Naseer awaiting the Director to go to a meeting. So, we're watching the landscaping guys struggle with pulling out some very old roots so they could replant. The workers were Hazara (most discriminated ethnic group in Afghanistan) and I assume Naseer is Tajik (power tribe here in Kabul) but I watched him as he watched them with an obvious level of compassion at their failure to extract the root. Next thing I know Naseer has the pick axe in his hands and powerfully swinging it against the root system. I started cheering him on (not effective as it was in English) but others soon joined... the workers were just beaming! In short order, he had the roots out and beamed victoriously.

For me, it wasn't about the root but the act of kindness on his part. The Director is a meticulously clean man and expects others around him to maintain themselves the same. So, this act of kindness brought personal risk which I'm confident he weighed before jumping into the hole. I just love many these people!

Unfortunately, there are many here who are not Naseers. As you've probably been seeing in the news the Taliban are now becoming more assertive outside Kabul, although there is significant anticipation here for the weekend. Sure wish the media would tell Naseer stories.

Mud is Good

Just loved the Dead Sea!! We stayed at an amazing hotel, The Kempinski; however, it was truly all about the floating and mud. The mud went on like liquid silk, especially when applied by a beautiful Bedouin lifeguard :- o. And, it's true what they say about the sea... I could literally stand in the water without having to tread. All in all an amazing experience, luxurious is the best word that comes to mind.

A Day in Forensics

Forensics, think CSI, is a growing application in the criminal justice process here and falls under the control of my Director's department. While I have virtually no scientific experience in forensics, I do understand the application of viable forensics in the investigation and prosecution of cases. Of course our understanding of this incredible science and the Afghan's capabilities/training in "criminal technique" vary significantly. Given all this, development of sustainable forensics in a country like Afghanistan is proving interesting. I personally think the coalition is pushing capabilities beyond their capacity and am working hard to change direction in this area of development.

#1 Our international forensics development group: respresented countries here are Afghanistan, Romania, Finland, Canada and the US

#2 That's the Afghan Director of Forensics, a very intelligent man and good leader. Here we're discussing the tour of his various laboratories just provided to some VIPs

#3 I was guest speaker at the Biometrics graduation... I cried a little I was so very proud of them, saw a couple of them rubbing their eyes too. I just love these people

#4 Presenting a certificate of training to one of the biometric graduates

It was a good day.

It's all about wearing a head scarf these days, the threat is higher and you can feel it in the air. I'm now down to three weeks in Afghanistan but lots of work before I depart.

Spring Offensive

#1 Women in Taliban times and still in many parts of Afghanistan, outside of Kabul. While many women in Kabul still wear burkas (the blue all encompassing garment), they are now allowed to walk unaccompanied by male members of the immediate family.

#2 Taliban. Asa calls them "animals". While most Taliban are from the Pashtun tribe, not all Pashtun are Taliban. Indeed, I work with many Pashtuns and they are most gracious men.

It's spring in Afghanistan which means a resurgence of the Taliban. You may have read of late the Taliban are attacking police convoys and taking the young police hostage (or so we hope). To date, there have been at least 50 hostages. With the 50 men come uniforms, weapons, police radios and vehicles. That gives rise to great security concerns here in Kabul. Security is now pretty tight and we've been locked down on a few occasions. To date, no Taliban success; however, there is concern it's only a matter of time.

Unfortunately, Afghans who work for the government (particularly police and army) or associated with the coalition are at greatest risk. Two young police men I work with in the ministry have come to my office of late and very covertly shared their stories. One is being directly threatened because of his work with the coalition, which he understands. His consternation is that the threats are being posed against his wife and parents... he's scared for them. The other is from the Hazara (Mongolian descendents) tribe, and there is just no future here for him. He wants to join other members of his family who are already out of the country for good. I'm trying to help him through my contact at the UN Human Rights Commission (UNHCR); however, it's not looking good.

At this point we (the US) has invested very heavily in both the Afghan Army and Police and it's imperative to the future of this country to defeat this threat. To date, they've been successful here in Kabul but it's just not looking good in the outlying provinces, especially around the Pakistan border. I know our American young men and women are valiantly fighting out in those outlying areas along with many brave Afghans to prevent Taliban resurgence and I'm confident they'll prove successful in the end. Doesn't good always win over evil?

Gethsemani

Gesthsemani is located at the foot of Mount Olives in modern Jerusalem. It was in this most holy place that Jesus prayed the night after the last supper. And, it was from this his location he was betrayed by Judas and arrested. I found it a most solemn place, moreso than the many other Jerusalem landmards. The priest in the picture just amazed me with his concentration... lots of people (many loud) milling around and he never looked up from his prayers. Sure wish I knew his secret, well I do but I'm just not there.

Change in Plans

Having options in life is good, and I've taken advantage of mine of late. So, here's what's happening in my "Fun Adventure."

I am departing Afghanistan on April 25 for good. From here I will stay in Dubai for a couple of days to recover and then fly to the nation/island of Grenada which is located in the West Indies, Carribean. Will depart Grenada for home June 1. So, why am going there and not coming home? Three reasons for this decision:

1. The company I work for over here lost their government contract. The company who did win asked me to stay for more money; however, it was going to be an administrative and operational hassle so I opted out of the offer given #2 and 3 below.
2. Taxes. To qualify for a significant tax break on the income I have earned over here, I must remain outside of the US for at least 330 days. When I leave Afghanistan I will be at about 297. I also realized after my vacation to Jordan/Israel I needed time to "decompress" before coming home... ask Mauria, she can tell you.
3. Researched and contemplated various options for killing 30+ days. Considered Europe (have friends there), South America and others but none sounded very relaxing. Then my friend Beth connected me with her sister and husband who are anchoring their sailboat with some other international cruisers in the St. Georges (Grenada) bay. They helped me find the above pictured villa Mor-Gan. It's located on the bay, 2 bedrooms, private salt water pool... daily cleaning/laundry service. And, got it for a steal as this is off season. Now negotiating for a little island car.

So, if any of you out there have a great desire to visit Grenada (yes, the US invaded the island in the '80s I think to push out the Cubans) know you are welcome. Otherwise, I'll just sleep a whole lot, read, swim, and hopefully get some sailing in with Harold and Diana.

In the meantime, still lots of work here which is good for me... boring would be very bad.

St Patrick's Day

St Patrick's Day in in Afghanistan, an interesting concept for sure.

The Irish contingent working in EU Police collaborated with the Irish Embassy here to throw a suare. I convinced some of my embassy colleagues (they have an armored vehicle, weapons and are good guys) to attend along with a friend from DC serving here on temporary duty.

The event began with a lovely buffet of Irish stew and potato soup with some good Irish music and festivities. That didn't last long before the party was moved to the 2nd floor bar where the celebration really began and the Guiness was flowing freely. Represented in the bar were most EU countries along with a couple of Americans. It's true, everyone is Irish on St. Patricks Day. I believe the gents pictured above are Estonian.

Departed the EU compound back to the US Embassy relatively early. We then migrated to another party at their little pub called "The Duck & Cover", quite a crowd imbibing freely. From there, we moved to a USAID (Agency for International Development) sponsored party in one of the party tents. Oh my!!! While not imbibing myself, I had a ball!!! Lots of free spirit dancing and great fun, almost like one of our family weddings. Ultimately got home after midnight, waaaay past my bedtime but it was worth it. Forgot what it was like to have good fun.

A most memorable St Patrick's Day for sure.

Happy New Year and Birthday

The Afghan national sport is called Buzkashi. This game is played between two teams of horsemen competing to pick up a headless calf, goat or sheep carcass and throw it into a scoring circle. I'm told because of this sport and rugged terrain, the Afghans are considered the best horsemen in the world. And, it's played throughout the country on Nowruz

New Year celebrations at the Sahki Shrine here in Kabul

March 21 is the "Persian" New Year celebrated by the Afghan people... it's just like ours but without the drinking. Families get together and celebrate the New Year which intentionally begins on the first day of spring. What a beautiful concept, the plants coming back to life starts the new year. Over here it is now Solar Year (SY) 1390 not our chrisitan calendar 2011. Needless to say, yesterday was an Afghan national holiday; however, Sunday was pretty darn quiet around the ministry which allowed me time to catch up on administrative matters.

Unfortunately, any major celebratory holiday here brings with it an enhanced security threat. So far, so good; however, that increased threat will last a few more days. Needless to say, this drives increased head scarf wearing which gives me no great joy as you well know. Sorry Julia should have let you know this earlier so you and your gardening group could dress accordingly.

March 21 is also my brother Bob's birthday, so I'd like to pass on a happy birthday to him reminding him he is once again a year older than me. Also, I bought you a really cool birthday gift but it'll have to wait till I get home.

Jerusalem, Just Amazing

Ancient history juxtaposed with modern living, Jerusalem proved a most fascinating experience. While not a biblical scholar or for that matter one of ancient history, I did find the people living in and visiting this ancient city fascinating.

#1: Contentious Jewish settlement in a disputed Palestinian declared section

#2 & 3: I observed a great deal of piety and love of God, from Chrisitans, Jews and Muslims alike

#4: Holiest of Holies. This is the site where Abraham brought his beloved and only son to sacrifice at the behest of God. Given its significance for Christians, Jews, Pagans and Muslims alike, it has generated many a war for the possession of this small site. Currently, a beautiful Muslim mosque dominates the site... built over many layers of churches, temples.

More coming soon, promise.

Interesting Afternoon

Picture: Afghanistan's Minister of Interior, Mohammadi

It's getting on to the end of the day when the Director walks into my Ministry office saying, "Mrs. Gail we go to the Minister's office" and just as abruptly walks out. Grabbing jacket, scarf and trying to at least push my hair in place I chase him outside the building and we rush to the Minister's officer.

There was quite the crowd in the Minister's office (equivalent to a US cabinet Secretary) to include 3 of our power Generals, not General Petreaus but his deputy. The Minister was quite entertained by the fact the Director walked in with his mentor (a girl) and immediately engaged directly with me. The Minister's background is Army and it's obvious he and the Director have discussed this issue on many occasion. So, he asked me if my Director criticizes him for his Army background (this questioning went on for a few minutes). I'm looking around at the power Generals and they are not smiling, obviously wanting to move on in the discussion... a discussion I can not share with you but let's just say contentious. I stayed focused on the Minister when he asked me "so, am I right?". No time to think and I feel the glaring looks so respond, "Minister, all I remember the Director telling me is how smart and handsome you are". Pregnant pause, followed by gut wrenching laughter by the Minister and Director, not so much from the Generals.

Fortunately, the Minister refocused back to the issues of the meeting and away from me. I was most happy with the Director's answers to the many questions posed. Unfortunately, it generated much work for all afterward. I continue to work hard.

Birthday Party

It was a good day here in Afghanistan. My Afghan colleagues found our from our European Union Police partners that it was my birthday. Suddenly, we turned a forensics meeting into a kabob party. Both groups were incredibly gracious and I most appreciatived their kindness.

I then had a series of meeting back at the international compound and departed there later than normal.... of course, it was my birthday. I should have suspected something when so many people were checking departure time for our traditional walk over to dinner on Thursday night (Friday is off). So, finally got back to my housing compound and a gang larger than normal headed out for dinner and then back to the Connecticut House for movie night.

Much to my surprise, there were a group of folks waiting with candles and a most beautiful and tasty birthday cake... happy birthday song too. The cake was amazing, white and moist with light fudge dripping... I believe at least three layer and huge! The best part of the festivities was that the candles displayed "50", a very nice present from them. The movie convened and as usual, I fell asleep.

Woman's Day in Afghanistan

On March 7 I walk into our Ministry officer later than normal with a ton of things to do along with Asa. But Asa immediately gets on her cell which aggravates me because we have a lot to do... I was wishing I had my "evil eye" bracelet on but a dirty look had to do. She blew me off.

Next thing I know the Criminal Investigations Gents enter my office in mass to present a huge bouquet of fresh flowers to me. They were so very excited, I cried (those of you who know me realize what it takes for me to cry). They realized I would be at a conference on Woman's Day (8 March) so wanted to ensure I received them on time. As you can see in the first picture, Asa also received a bouquet but smaller than mine, yes, that was a gloat. The kindness of the Afghan people never cease to amaze me. Today is my birthday and you can bet I did not let them know about that one, they'd go crazy for my birthday and I know they have very limited income.

So, that's the big surprise for this blog as promised. Not very exciting to most, but it sure was for me. The flowers are now sitting in a lined small trash can... it's all I got. But, they're the most beautiful I've ever received.

Happy International Women's Day to all the women reading this blog!